![]() ![]() Some of the smaller ones require only a small predrilled hole and therefore very little repair when they’re removed. Some merely expand when the screw is driven in others, like the Cobra Triple Grip, have wings that will flip out behind the drywall. You predrill for them, and they work in plaster-and-lath walls and masonry as well as in drywall. These anchors are suitable for light-duty tasks like hanging pictures, curtain rods, small shelves, towel rods, and paper holders. The EZ Ancor Drywall Anchor (1), rated for 50 lb., has a solid shank that expands as the screw is driven Toggler Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors (2), rated for 65 lb., scissor open when the screw is driven EZ Ancor zinc drywall anchors (3), rated for 50 lb., can self-drill even if you happen to hit wood behind the drywall EZ Ancor Drywall and Stud Anchors (4), rated for 50 lb., have a coarsely threaded shank for drywall and a finely threaded tip that enables it to grip a stud behind the drywall. Some have a solid shank so that after a screw is driven into them they simply expand somewhat others are scored along the shank so the tip splits open behind the drywall for greater holding power. Their coarse threads really bite into the wallboard, but they are easily removed and leave little damage. You drive these clever anchors into drywall with a screwdriver, no predrilling required. Bear Claw Screws (2), also available from Lee Valley, have a flange below the head, making them well-suited for frames or light mirrors that you are hanging with picture wire. ![]() they can also be used in masonry (or wood) if you drill a pilot hole. Lee Valley sells Wall Dog Screws (1), which have very nice bite in drywall and are rated at 60 lb. They’re rated to hold as much weight as plastic sleeve anchors, and they have the advantage of leaving a relatively small hole when you extract them. If you’re hanging a stock cabinet (obtained from a box store or cabinet wholesaler), inspect its construction and, if need be, add any cleats, rails, or corner blocks that will strengthen the piece and ensure an easier installation.Ī closer look at the cleats and hangers youĬan use to hold cabinets and shelves on the wall.įor some light-duty applications, like smaller picture frames or a light display shelf, you can actually use coarse-threaded screws designed to be driven into drywall without an anchor or a pilot hole. Using a French cleat (see the photo on this page) adds some time to your build but provides solid attachment, makes the cabinet easily removable, and keeps you from having to drive screws through the cabinet from inside. For a cabinet that will carry a lot of weight or see heavy use, you might consider using a thicker back panel, or you could incorporate an inset top rail to keep the piece square and to better support your fasteners. One note before you get to the point of selecting anchors: Be sure to build in some means to easily install or hang your piece. I’ve gathered a wide range of anchors, and I’ll describe how they work, what situations and wall types they’re suited for, and how to install them. Which type is best in your case? That will depend on the size and weight of the piece you’re hanging and the composition of the wall you’re hanging it on. But if not, you’ll need wall anchors, those little devices you set into the wall to receive screws or bolts. If you can hit studs with every screw, you’re in good shape. You’ve finished building your cabinet, mirror, picture frame, or shelf. ![]() Mario Rodriguez has gathered a range of wall anchors from toggles, to screws, to butterfly anchors and talks about how they work, where they are best used, and how to install them. There is a wide variety of anchors out there, and the best one for the job will depend on many factors, including the composition of the wall, weight of the piece, and more. Synopsis: Lacking conveniently placed studs in every wall, your option when hanging a cabinet, mirror, or picture may well be wall anchors. ![]()
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